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Cornwall's Sardines: An Ancient Fishery with a Modern Twist

3 minute read

The Cornish Sardine fishery is one of Britain's oldest industries, and for centuries it's helped keep coastal communities fed through long, harsh winters. Back then, these fish were better known as pilchards, but don't let the name fool you. Sardines and pilchards are exactly the same fish, just known by different names.

Today, Sardines have become famous for being packed with Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids, making them one of the healthiest fish you can eat. But long before anyone talked about superfoods, Cornish families simply knew them as a reliable source of nourishment.

An Age-Old Tradition

For hundreds of years, especially from Elizabethan times through to the late 19th century, pilchards were a lifeline. Every Autumn, when the Sardine season began, entire communities would spring into action.

Tucking a Pilchard Seine. Image courtesy of John McWilliams © https://www.cornwallgoodseafoodguide.org.uk/

Imagine standing on a clifftop overlooking the sea. A lookout, known as the hewer, scans the water for the tell-tale dark patches that reveal huge shoals of fish. The moment they're spotted, the hewer lets out the famous "hewen cry," alerting everyone below that the fish have arrived.

Out at sea, the seine master steers the boat exactly where the hewer directs, surrounding the shoal with a huge net before carefully drawing it closed.

Then the real spectacle begins.

As the boats head for shore, the whole village joins in. Farmers leave their fields, shopkeepers close their doors, and butchers, carpenters, fishermen and labourers all make their way to the beach. Horses, donkeys, carts and baskets are brought down to help unload the catch.


Image courtesy of John McWilliams © https://www.cornwallgoodseafoodguide.org.uk/

The sardines are then gutted, cleaned and packed into barrels with salt, a traditional preservation method that kept families supplied with nutritious food throughout the winter. Thanks to this remarkable community effort, there was always food on the table when fresh supplies were scarce.

Ancient Fishery, Modern Technology

While the tradition remains, today's Cornish Sardine fishery is a world away from those early days.

Modern fishing boats are equipped with sophisticated sonar and electronic fish-finding equipment that can accurately locate shoals close to the coast. Once a shoal is found, the process is surprisingly similar to centuries ago: the net is carefully set around the fish and slowly drawn in.

The biggest difference comes when the catch reaches the boat. Instead of being hauled aboard by hand, a powerful fish pump, often described as a giant marine vacuum cleaner, gently transfers the sardines into insulated bins filled with slush ice. This rapidly chills the fish, locking in freshness and preserving their outstanding quality.

Cornish Sardines Management Association
Image from https://www.cornishsardines.org.uk/ 

The speed is remarkable. It's entirely possible for sardines to be caught, landed, loaded onto a refrigerated lorry and on their way to a processing facility within just two or three hours. It's a perfect example of modern innovation working hand in hand with an ancient fishing tradition.

Fishing Sustainably for Generations to Come

One of the best stories of recent years is the remarkable recovery of Sardine stocks in Cornish waters. Over the last 10 to 20 years, numbers have increased dramatically, providing a healthy and sustainable fishery.

To protect this valuable resource, fishermen, merchants and fisheries regulators work closely together to decide how much should be caught each season. Careful management ensures the fishery meets market demand while allowing stocks to remain healthy and continue to thrive.

It's a partnership that helps safeguard one of Cornwall's oldest industries ensuring future generations can enjoy the same incredible fish that has sustained coastal communities for centuries.

Find out more from about Cornish Fisheries -https://www.cornwallgoodseafoodguide.org.uk/cornish-fishing.php

Take a look at Jack, The Cornish Fishmonger with an Introduction to Sardines - https://youtu.be/6sN6p5V_4Gs

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